Sunday Dinner Series · No. 3

Falasṭīn

musakhan, maqluba, and a table of mezze

Oakland, California  ·  Cooking at 2  ·  Dinner at 6

The invitation

Bread on the table before anything else.

For our third dinner we're cooking Falasṭīn: the food of Palestinian homes, where bread is constant, olive oil is generous, and nothing is plated for one. This one is co-hosted with Gaby, who grew up on this food and will be keeping the rest of us honest.

Come at two. This dinner is all hands. Everyone gets a job: rolling taboon, charring eggplant, pressing kanafeh, chopping mountains of parsley. Dinner tastes better when you made part of it.

— Gaby & Hannah

Run of show

How the day goes

2:00 PM

Cooking starts

The lamb's been simmering since morning. Kanafeh gets assembled, the maqluba gets layered, and the kitchen opens. Everyone gets an apron and a job.

3:30 PM

The oven takes over

Musakhan goes in, fresh taboon bakes, and the house starts smelling like sumac and caramelized onions.

5:00 PM

Mezze on the table

Dips, bread, crudité, falafel, and something cold to drink. Graze accordingly, but pace yourselves.

5:30 PM

The flip

Maqluba gets inverted in front of everyone, musakhan lands on the table, and we sit down to dinner.

After dinner

Kanafeh, immediately

Out of the oven, syrup poured hot, eaten before it has any chance to cool down.

The recipes

How to make everything

Everything we're cooking, in full: what goes in it and how it comes together, already scaled for our table of twelve. Where a recipe came from someone else's kitchen, they're credited.

Taboon bread makes 12 rounds · we bake two batches
3 hours · mostly rising
Ingredients (per batch)
  • 6 cups all-purpose flour
  • 2½ cups warm water
  • 4½ tsp active dry yeast (2 packets)
  • 2 tsp sugar · 1 tbsp salt
  • ¼ cup olive oil
Method
  1. Stir yeast and sugar into the warm water; wait 10 minutes until foamy.
  2. Whisk flour and salt, add the yeast mixture and oil, and bring together into a rough dough. Knead 8–10 minutes until smooth.
  3. Rise in an oiled, covered bowl until doubled, about 90 minutes. Divide into 12 balls; rest 15 minutes.
  4. Heat the oven (or grill) as hot as it goes with a pizza stone inside, at least 30 minutes.
  5. Stretch each ball to a 7–8 inch round and dimple all over with your fingertips. That's the taboon signature.
  6. Bake on the stone until puffed and charred in spots, 3–5 minutes. Wrap in a towel to keep soft.
Hummus the slow way
Overnight soak + 3 hours

Adapted from Waleed Asadi

Ingredients
  • 2 cups dry chickpeas
  • 1 cup tahini
  • 2–3 garlic cloves
  • Juice of 2–3 lemons
  • 1–1½ cups very cold water · salt
Method
  1. Soak the chickpeas overnight in plenty of water; they'll double in size.
  2. Drain, then boil in fresh water about 2 hours, past tender, to the edge of falling apart. Reserve ½ cup of the cooking water, drain, and let cool.
  3. Blend chickpeas with the reserved cooking water, tahini, garlic, lemon, and salt until thick and a little coarse.
  4. With the machine running, add cold water a splash at a time until it turns pale, fluffy, and completely smooth. Finish with olive oil and sumac.
Mutabal smoky, a little chunky
1 hour

Adapted from Wafa Shami, Palestine in a Dish

Ingredients
  • 2 large eggplants
  • ½ cup tahini
  • Juice of 2–3 lemons (be generous)
  • 3 garlic cloves, crushed
  • Salt · olive oil · pomegranate seeds
Method
  1. Slit the eggplant skins a few times, then char directly over a gas flame or grill, turning, until the insides are completely soft and the outsides are blackened.
  2. Cool, peel, and drain off excess liquid.
  3. Mash with a fork; it should stay a little chunky, not purée.
  4. Fold in tahini, lemon, garlic, and salt. Finish with olive oil and pomegranate seeds.
Muhammara sweet, smoky, a little hot
40 minutes

Adapted from Heifa Odeh, Fufu's Kitchen

Ingredients
  • 6 red bell peppers, sliced
  • ½ cup olive oil, divided
  • ½ cup walnuts, toasted
  • 2 tbsp each: pomegranate molasses, sumac, tomato paste
  • 2 tbsp Aleppo pepper · salt and pepper
Method
  1. Roast the peppers at 400°F with half the oil, salt, and pepper until soft and caramelized, 30–35 minutes.
  2. Cool slightly, then pulse in a food processor with everything else, including the remaining oil, until smooth overall with a little walnut texture left.
  3. Serve drizzled with olive oil and topped with chopped walnuts.
Toum handle with respect
20 minutes

Adapted from Sohla El-Waylly, Serious Eats

Ingredients
  • 1 cup garlic cloves, halved, germ removed
  • 2 tsp kosher salt
  • ¼ cup lemon juice, divided
  • ¼ cup ice water, divided
  • 3 cups neutral oil
Method
  1. Process garlic and salt to a fine paste, scraping down often. Add a spoonful of lemon juice and process until smooth and slightly fluffy.
  2. With the machine running, drizzle in oil in the thinnest stream you can manage, about ½ cup, then a spoonful of lemon juice.
  3. Keep alternating: ½ cup oil, then a spoonful of lemon juice until it's gone, then ice water, until everything is in and the sauce is white, thick, and fluffy.
  4. Patience is the whole recipe. Rushing the oil is how it breaks. Keeps a month in the fridge.
Tabouleh a parsley salad, not a grain salad
40 minutes · mostly chopping

Adapted from Wafa Shami, Palestine in a Dish

Ingredients
  • 6 bunches flat-leaf parsley (yes, six)
  • ¾ cup fine bulgur (#1)
  • Juice of 4 lemons
  • 5 ripe tomatoes, finely diced (not too juicy)
  • 6 scallions, finely sliced · ¾ cup fresh mint, chopped
  • ½ cup olive oil · salt
Method
  1. Soak the bulgur in the lemon juice, not water, for 10–15 minutes while you chop. It drinks the flavor and stays dry.
  2. Wash the parsley well and dry it completely, then chop it fine. Wet parsley turns to mush; this step is the whole salad.
  3. Toss parsley, tomatoes, scallions, and mint with the bulgur and its lemon juice.
  4. Dress with olive oil and salt just before serving. It should taste bright, green, and a little sharp.
Musakhan the centerpiece
1 hour + 1–3 hours marinating

Adapted from Yasmin Khan's Zaitoun, via NYT Cooking

Ingredients
  • 4 lbs bone-in, skin-on chicken thighs and drumsticks
  • Juice of 2 large lemons · ½ cup olive oil
  • 3 tbsp sumac, plus more to finish
  • 8 garlic cloves, crushed
  • 1 tsp each cumin and allspice · ½ tsp cinnamon · salt and pepper
  • 2 large red onions, thinly sliced
  • 4 tbsp pine nuts · parsley · fresh taboon bread
Method
  1. Slash the chicken pieces a few times, then massage with lemon, most of the oil, the sumac, garlic, spices, salt, and pepper. Toss in the onion. Marinate 1–3 hours.
  2. Roast everything across two sheet pans at 375°F until the juices run clear, 40–45 minutes. Tent with foil.
  3. Fry the pine nuts in the last spoon of oil until golden.
  4. Warm the taboon, pile the chicken and onions on top, and pour the pan juices over so the bread drinks them. Shower with pine nuts, parsley, and more sumac.
Maqluba the flip
3 hours · lamb simmers first

Adapted from Heifa Odeh, Fufu's Kitchen

Ingredients
  • 2½–3 lbs bone-in lamb shoulder, in medium pieces
  • 1 yellow onion · 3 cardamom pods · 2 bay leaves · 1 tsp allspice · salt and pepper
  • 2¼ cups jasmine or basmati rice
  • 1 tsp cinnamon · ½ tsp turmeric · ½ tsp cumin (for the rice)
  • 2 eggplants, in rounds · 1 head cauliflower, in florets · olive oil
  • 2 tomatoes, sliced (for the bottom of the pot)
  • Toasted slivered almonds · parsley
Method
  1. Cover the lamb with water, bring to a simmer, and skim until clear. Add the onion, cardamom, bay, allspice, salt, and pepper, and simmer until tender, 1½–2 hours. Strain and keep the broth; it cooks the rice.
  2. Meanwhile, toss the eggplant and cauliflower with olive oil, salt, and pepper and roast at 400°F until deeply golden.
  3. Rinse and soak the rice, drain, and toss with the rice spices and salt.
  4. Layer the pot: tomato slices on the bottom, then the lamb, then the roasted vegetables, then the rice. Don't stir.
  5. Pour in hot lamb broth to about ½ inch over the rice, bring to a boil, then cover and simmer low until the rice is tender and the liquid is gone, 30–40 minutes. Rest 15 minutes, covered, off heat.
  6. The moment: set a platter over the pot, flip with conviction, and lift slowly. Finish with almonds and parsley.
Kanafeh served immediately
1 hour + overnight cheese soak
Ingredients
  • 1 lb kataifi (shredded phyllo), thawed
  • 1 cup clarified butter, melted (plus orange food coloring, optional but classic)
  • 1 lb Nabulsi cheese, desalted, or fresh mozzarella + ⅓ cup ricotta
  • Syrup: 2 cups sugar, 1 cup water, squeeze of lemon, 1 tbsp orange blossom water, splash of rosewater
  • Ground pistachios · dried rose petals
Method
  1. Make the syrup first: simmer sugar, water, and lemon 10 minutes, then stir in the orange blossom and rosewater off heat. Cool.
  2. If using Nabulsi, slice and soak in several changes of water starting the night before to pull the salt.
  3. Pulse the kataifi into short strands and work the butter through with your hands (tint the butter first if going classic orange).
  4. Press half firmly into a buttered pan, layer the cheese, and press the rest of the kataifi on top.
  5. Bake at 375°F until deep golden, 30–40 minutes, while everyone eats dinner.
  6. Flip onto a platter, pour the cool syrup over the hot kanafeh, and finish with pistachios and rose. Serve within minutes; this dish does not wait.
What to bring

Come with something in hand

Nothing is required, but if you'd like to contribute, here's the flavor world we're in: pomegranate, pistachio, mint, and rose.

Something to pour

Taybeh beer or Cremisan wine if your bottle shop carries Palestinian labels, or arak if you're feeling brave. Pomegranate juice or rose sparkling water for the non-drinkers.

A big bunch of mint

For limonana (fresh mint lemonade) with dinner, and mint tea after. There is no such thing as too much.

Medjool dates

The good ones. Fat, soft, still on the branch if you can find them.

Nuts for the table

Roasted pistachios or almonds, something to pick at between mezze and dinner.

Something from a Middle Eastern bakery

Halva, rose malban, or anything chocolate-dipped with pistachio. Dessert has backup, but no one has ever complained about more.

Or just yourself

Genuinely. The table's already full. What it needs is you at it.